Phoenix did not want to let us go. First it was the long goodbyes with Paula and Dave. Then we decided to change my rear tire. Then it was time for lunch. We picked what was nominally a Japanese fast food restaurant, and for what it’s worth, it went about as well as you’d expect from a Mexican restaurant in Japan. Passable. Next time just pass it by.
We paused briefly to examine the cotton fields just outside of the city, and eventually stopped for the night in Tucson. It was dark by the time we got there, again. With the cold morning the following day we didn’t rush out the door, although we should have. Arriving at the border in Agua Prieta it was already late afternoon, and the formalities of getting our vehicle import permits, although straight forward, were by no means quick. Wait in this line, wait in that line, repeat. I was disappointed that the customs officer showed zero interest in the expensive Mexican insurance I was sure I had to have for the bikes, and just insisted on seeing the US-based policy. Could have saved myself lots of money on that, apparently.
By the time we were done and ready to go the sun was very low and we wanted to make some distance between the border and ourselves. These regions tend to have a rather poor reputation. Agua Prieta was a very typical border town, dominated by bars with large Tecate signs and dusty potholed roads. We aimed to get to the town of Banámichi, which was supposed to sit along a scenic canyon road. So we heard.
With only the faint sliver of a young moon to light up the landscape, we saw nothing but the occasional vegetation on the side of the road. By the time we made it to Banámichi, it looked very quiet, and we wondered aloud if we’d even find a place to eat. We decided to take care of that first, stopping at a very casual shack on the far end of town to indulge in some first rate Mexican food. Quesadillas and a burro – they don’t call them burritos, even though they are much smaller than their counterparts in the US.
It was simple but effective, with the only hiccup being that they only accepted cash and in our haste out of Agua Prieta we didn’t think to stop at an ATM to get pesos. Alex had to scramble to a silver mine just outside of town to the only working ATM. There was a line there to use it.
By the time we finished our first Mexican meal, found a hotel, woke up the people running it to give us a room and settled in, it was past 8 pm. We have been caught riding at night for the 6th day in a row. Determined to break the spell, we agreed to just not ride anywhere the next day. Banámichi was small, quiet and seemed to have absolutely nothing to do. It was perfect.
